Here are 2 switches without the cover:
Other styles and configurations exist as well. Here are some other examples.
You may have switches like the ones above, or some like the ones below:
See our full list of vintage styles of GE switches with images and part numbers. Use provided links to buy direct GE replacements at Kyle Switch Plates.
Replace Missing Covers for Original Vintage GE Low Voltage Switches
If your old switches are working and you need to replace missing or broken covers, we have Old Style GE Cover Plates that fit the original switches.To cover original switches, keep the switches mounted in the original brackets and order replacement covers only.
The replacement covers for original GE low voltage switches come with matching screws and attach to the old metal bracket that has always held the switches in the wall box.
Available in classic ivory, crisp white or industrial-looking stainless steel.
Replacing GE Low Voltage Switches in Your Home
GE still manufactures switches to replace old ones that have gone bad.If you think a switch is broken, the first step is to verify it is the switch and not the relay (or transformer) that's causing problems.
If a light in your home isn't working, use this GE Troubleshooting Guide for Low Voltage Lighting to determine which parts in your system are causing problems.
You are typically dealing with a broken switch if there is a single light that isn't working, the problem is intermittent (switch sometimes works, sometimes doesn't), and the same light works fine from another switch in the home.
The easiest way to confirm a switch is broken is to turn off the power to the switch. Take a working switch from another location in your home and use it as a temporary replacement for the switch that isn't functioning. If, when the power is restored, this fixes the problem, the switch is indeed broken.
Many homeowners decide to replace working switches in order to achieve a more modern look.
New switches are available in white, ivory and gray. New covers can be purchased in white, ivory and stainless steel.
For whatever reason you decide to replace a vintage switch, the following information will guide you through the replacement process.
GE's new replacement low voltage switches are not the same size as the older ones. This means that all switches that share a cover plate need to be replaced at the same time. The new switches are not compatible with the old covers or the old mounting straps/brackets.
Replace one switch = replace all switches + the cover they share.
It is very important not to put new switches into the old brackets! The slots on the old brackets are too small for the new switches. If jammed into the old bracket, the new switch will get pinched and eventually burn out the connected relay.
The good news is that the new style GE covers at Kyle Switch Plates eliminate the need for a mounting bracket.
Snap each switch into the plate from the front side, then wire them in (remember to turn off the power first) and attach the cover to the wall box.
Many homeowners install these new switches themselves using our GE Low Voltage Wiring Guide.
If you have any hesitation, hire an electrician.
Note that many electricians have not encountered residential low voltage systems before, so be sure to add this wiring guide to your order (free with purchase of any GE part) to assist whoever installs the replacement parts.
Shop New GE Low Voltage Switches.
Shop New Style Bracket-less GE Switch Covers.
Fixing Broken Relays in a GE Low Voltage System
The relay is likely the culprit if a single light isn't working, the failure is consistent (light stuck in ON or OFF position and won't change), and the light won't respond from any other switches that control it.If some lights work and some don't, the failure is intermittent, and it sometimes takes pushing a switch multiple times to get the light ON or OFF, check the output on the system's transformer. In this situation, an output above 0 VDC indicates a broken relay.
As with diagnosing a broken switch, a working relay can be wired in place of the one in question. If the problem is fixed, it is the relay that needs to be replaced.
New GE relays can be purchased here. Don't forget to add a GE wiring guide to help with installation.
The 2 most popular selling GE relays are the RR7 and the RR9. The difference is the type of light switch each controls.
Look at your old relay and locate the part number.
Replacement relays are as follows:
Old Relay Part Numbers:
- RR2
- RR3
- RR5
Replacement:
Old Pilot Relay Part Numbers:
- RR4
- RR6
- RR8
Replacement:
New Transformers for GE Low Voltage Lighting
The transformer needs to be replaced if no lights in your system are working and the transformer output reads 0 VDC. Or, if some lights work and others don't and lights remain stuck in their last position (ON or OFF) and can't be controlled from any switch location.The RT1-RT2 GE Transformer replaces the following discontinued models:
- RT1
- RT2
- RT3
- RT7
Wiring Tips for a GE System
You need one relay for every switch, unless you are wiring the switches in a 3-way setup to control the same lights from different locations. For example, if you have a switch at the top of a staircase and a switch in the family room which both control the family room's lights, they may be wired together so that the lights can be turned on or off from either location (but only need one relay).
You don't need "3-way" low voltage switches since GE switches can be wired in parallel to achieve 3-way functionality.
You can wire up to five relays to one transformer, depending on your setup. Consult an electrician to confirm how many relays per transformer is safe for your home.
To connect a new GE switch, turn off power to the switch, pull off or snip the wires (if soldered to the switch) and strip some of the casing from the end of each wire.
Once removed from old switches, insert wires into the red quick-connector terminals and crimp.
Snap new switches into front of new covers.
Then slide the quick connectors onto the flat connection terminals on the back of the switch.
Switch terminals are labeled "BLK OFF" for the black wire, "RED ON" for the red wire, and "COMMON" (the center terminal) for the white wire.
Attach cover to box and restore power.
To wire a single relay, disconnect power and locate the large brass screws on the relay's base. Next, locate the four small holes on the bottom of the relay (two holes per screw, not labeled on relay; labeled 1-4 in image below). For a standard application, you will put the wire coming from the breaker into hole 1 or 2. The wire going to the fixture goes into hole 3 or 4.
For a 2-relay setup (example: same breaker powers multiple rooms - say a bedroom and a bathroom), the wire from the circuit breaker goes specifically into the first hole of relay #1. Then, a wire from the second hole of relay #1 goes into the first hole of the 2nd relay. The lamps get wired to hole #3 of each relay. Room 1's lamp connects to hole #3 on relay #1; room 2's lamp connects to hole #3 on relay #2.